Pashmina
is the current buzzword of the fashion industry and this season's must have for
the status seekers. The
pashmina wrap is now regarded as an essential
component of the modern woman's wardrobe. A simple shawl costs $500.00 and can
be found popping up everywhere.from Nieman Marcus to ebay.com, in fashion
magazines and on celebrities.
Pashmina
is the finest wool shorn from the soft undercoat (neck and belly) of Himalayan
mountain goats. Touted to be lighter, softer and finer than cashmere,
pashmina has a texture so fine "it is the fiber equivalent of meringue"
according to Veronica Chambers of Newsweek magazine. Designer Gabriele Sanders,
known for her embroidered pashmina shawls says, "pashmina makes
regular cashmere feel like cardboard." The feather light fiber is
extraordinarily soft and light, yet exceptionally warm.
Discovered by the fashion world only in the
past year, pashmina has been a status symbol in the East for hundreds of
years. In India and Nepal, a pashmina blanket was an essential component
of a wealthy woman's dowry. Shawls and blankets woven from pashmina wool
have been adored for centuries in the Far East. And like other things
rarefied and Eastern, it's been translated eagerly into Western decadence.
But according to Karl Spilhaus, president
of Boston's Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute, "Pashmina is just
cashmere.there's no difference. Pashmina is simply the Indian word for
cashmere." He contributes all the hype to the aggressive marketing of
pashmina. Spilhaus stresses that the better made pashminas are not
rip-offs at all: "A good quality cashmere shawl is worth very dime
you pay for it, and it will last you a lifetime."
Kenneth Langley, professor of textile
sciences at the University of Massachusetts, agrees with Spilhaus.
"Cashmere fibers have a unique appearance under the microscope.and pashmina
fibers look exactly like cashmere fibers." Langley also says pashmina
wool does not just come from the neck and belly. He claims the fibers are
combed from the goat when they are molting. "You obviously get as much as
you can, and do not pick a place."
The pashmina shawl trend has sparked an
interest in shawls of all descriptions. The pashmina shawls are
versatile, all-season pieces that may be worn over a bare or sleeveless dress
on a cool summer night, with a suit in the fall, and with a coat in
winter. The shawl can be wrapped around the upper body and worn as you
would a jacket. The can be worn as a muffler around the neck or wrapped
at the waist. Pashmina is often blended with silk, which sound more
luxurious, but is not as good. It does make it lighter, but also makes it
cheaper.
In fact there is something even more
luxurious than pashmina.but it's illegal. It is called shahtoosh, and it
comes from the fur of a chiru, an endangered Tibetan antelope. A pure shahtoosh
wrap is sometimes called a ring scarf because it is so fine and delicate that a
whole shawl can easily be slipped through a wedding ring. It is also
touted to be warm enough to hatch a pigeon's egg. To clip the hair,
hunters kill the animal. An estimated three to five chirus are killed for
each shawl. It is illegal to buy or sell shahtoosh under the U.N.Convention on
International Trade in Endangered Species.
References:
Chambers, Veronica. Newsweek, May 11, 1998 "Passion for
Pashmina"
Chambers, Veronica. Newsweek, October 7, 1999 "Now,
This Should Get Your Goat"
White, Jackie. The Tennessean, January 2, 2000 "The Frill is
Back"