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The term Phulkari means flower working. Phulkari means the simple and sparcely embroidered shawls for daily use. It is famous in Punjab in India.But the garments woven to cover the entire body for special occassions are called Baghs.
Process
Phulkari is traditionally done on a handspun khadi cloth with simple darning stitches using the un spun silk floss yarn called 'pat'. Single strand threads are used for the purpose. The simple stitches in the adept hands make it one of the most sought after embroidery craft. Shading and variation is often obtained by the using horizontal, vertical or diagonal stitches.
There are a variety of phulkari styles used for different occasions and purposes.
PULKARI - BIRDS EYE VIEW
In punjab the shawls and other garments woven by women are worn during festivals and special occassions. Thery are being embroidered for their family members only not for sale in the market. So it is purely a domestic art.
In Phulkari embroidery beautifys the cloth, whereas in Bagh, it entirely covers the garment so that the base cloth is not visible. The end portion of pallav of Phulkari have separate panels of fine workmanship radiant colors and fine designs.
The most favoured colour is red and its shades, because Bagh and Phulkari are used during marriage and other festivals. Red is considered auspicious by
Hindus and Sikhs. Other colours are brown, blue , black, white. White was used in Bagh by elderly ladies.
Phulkari Embroidery
The phulkari with very intricate floral patterns is called Bagh that means garden. It is primarily used on the odhanies and dupattas. It is considered auspecious for the bride and for the new born. It is worn on ceremonies. Phulkari for some time now is being used in home furnishings specially wall hangings, sofa throws and other soft furnishings.
The Chope, is red colored cloth with embroidered borders usually presented to the bride by her grandmother during a ceremony before the wedding.
Vari-da-bagh (bagh of the trousseau) is also on a red cloth with golden yellow embroidery symbolizing happiness and fertility. The entire cloth is covered patterns smaller ones within the border and intricately worked in different colors.
Ghunghat bagh or sari-pallau (covering for the head) has a small border on all four sides. In the center of each side, which covers the head, a large triangular motif is worked.
Bawan bagh (fifty-two in Punjabi) has as many geometrical patterns.
Darshan dwar (the gate offering a view of the deity) is usually for presentation in temples or to adorn the walls of the home when the Granth Sahib (holy book of the Sikhs) is brought to a house. The theme is adecorative gate.
Suber is a phulkari worn by a bride during marriage rites. It comprises five motifs, one in the center and one each in the four corners.
Chamba is a hybrid phulkari having a series of wavy creepers, stylized leaves and flowers.
Besides this, designs inspired by various day to day items, fauna and flora like sunflowers, peacock, red chilies, ace of diamonds and so on.
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